To Market, To Market
Talking to Central 9th Market about the importance of fresh, accessible food in a corner store setting, plus WCG workshops and a Food Justice Coalition film screening.
To Market, To Market
In case you missed it, one of Salt Lake’s favorite corner market’s just took home an impressive prize. At the end of February, Central 9th Market was named as Best Restaurant by Salt Lake Mag, which is kind of shocking at first since the shop is not technically a restaurant. But the little shop—which sells fresh, local produce, deli goods, locally-made and artisanal condiments and products, plus snacks and beverages like any bodega would—also deals in cultishly popular sandwiches. To celebrate their win we talked to owner and chef Max Nelson about why places like Central 9th are important for our communities and their access to fresh, local food.
Occupying the space for around two years now, Central 9th was undergoing some changes when we chatted one morning on a closed Tuesday—new fridges were crowded in the back and a hulking eight-burner stove was being swapped out with an older, smaller one. This will definitely help the shop keep up with their daily busy-ness.
“The food definitely drives this shit,” Nelson explained, referencing the fact that similar corner stores, like The Store that occupied the space before Central 9th, don’t always do great business when their main offerings are just products sitting on shelves. Central 9th has that, but it’s their sandwiches, pizzas and occasional burgers that grow lines out the door regularly and provide a financial backbone. Even if you just go for a sandwich, though, browsing the store while you wait for your order to be called will probably lead you to picking up something you need—like when you remember you’re out of greens at home and they’ve got fresh, local ones from Red Acre Farm in Cedar City.
Nelson comes from two very different backgrounds that have informed the way the store does its business—hunting and growing his own food, later working construction, which didn’t always result in enough money to afford a filling lunch, then finally as a chef in the fine dining world. That’s why the hefty sandwiches, despite being filled with layers of fine meats, cheeses, savory mushrooms, house-made condiments and pickles are only $10.
“There's a way you can do fine dining without all of that overheard and white table cloths and all that shit. Like with a really good burger. I’ve spent all my time for the last ten years just trying to get in touch with as many local farmers and purveyors as I can. And it shows here, in the summer, all of our local produce is from within two miles of this place,” he explains. Sourcing locally is also key to financial success for Central 9th. While inflation has noticeably increased the cost of food at grocery stores, chains and other kinds of restaurants that source from large food distributors, local sourcing keeps costs down. “You don’t have to ship [local food]. All of our flour that we use is Central Milling, it’s from Logan. We make everything from scratch, it’s way cheaper. My labor is a little bit higher, but my food cost is way lower. I have to pay more people and teach them to cook all this shit, but the food itself is cheaper.”
It’s a model that’s working for Central 9th, and working for the neighborhood, which is a walkable mix of dwindling single-family homes and newer apartments. But fresh food or no, Central 9th still stands out just by virtue of being a corner store, of which there is kind of a dearth in Salt Lake. That’s probably something to do with our wider blocks and car-centric city—Nelson points out that in cities like New York, which are denser and filled with more people traveling on foot, corner stores like his are, well, on every corner.
While our blocks certainly aren’t shrinking anytime soon, Salt Lake is changing very quickly, so here’s to hoping that Central 9th’s popularity can prove to be an influence, towards investing in more delicious, fresh food that is truly part of our local community—grown, cultivated, crafted, right here. In the meantime, go grab one of their breakfast sandwiches.
Calendar
April 6
WCG Pals of the Plant Sale secrets
Planting season really is so close, so get hyped for WCG’s annual Spring Plant Sale on May 13, and get a sneak peak at their varieties via the Pals of the Plant Sale Exclusive Webinar.
April 8
Marcellus Foods Pop Up
If you’ve read anything about Marcellus Foods in the last few months, you’ll be excited to hear that the fresh-prepped ingredient-focused business is opening up a pop-up schedule while they search for their brick and mortar home. Starting on Mondays at 9 a.m. through Thursdays, anyone interested in trying their easy-to-use products out can go here to browse and order packages and single items. Orders can be picked up on Saturdays at the Masonic Temple from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m, and their first pop-up is this Saturday, April 8.
Hollow Tree Honey Presents: Bees, Soil, and Wildlife Coexistence
Learn about how bees and beekeeping are keeping up with conversations around regenerative and sustainable soil maintenance at this talk with Sarah Red-Laird, AKA, Bee Girl! Register here.
April 15
Understanding and Improving Your Soil
WCG offers another way to get to know your soil with this workshop on understanding all that goes into good soil—microorganisms, organic matter and a steward who cares :)
April 22
All About Onions, Leeks, and Shallots
Elevate your allium game at this straightforward workshop on how to grow the vegetable that makes everything taste better.
April 23
Hollow Tree Honey Presents: Native Bee Box Building
Getting into beekeeping this summer? Get the basics and the starter knowledge to get your own hive a-buzzing at this free event.
April 26
Food Justice Coalition Film & Panel Discussion
Head to Kiln for a mid-week viewing of The Invisible Vegan, a documentary that explores the problem of unhealthy dietary patterns in the African American community and the potential around meeting that problem with plant-based diets. Enjoy food and drinks, and a post-film panel discussion with Food Justice Coalition founder Jeanette Padilla and representatives of the Black Physicians of Utah. Register for the free event and find more info here.
April 27
What’s Next for Your Seedlings?
Another exclusive event for WCG’s Pals of the Plant Sale, learn how to take care of your precious seedlings and sprouts so they can grow big and strong this summer.
Other News
GULB Updates
Spring is right around the corner, and that means CSAs are available for sign-ups at your favorite local farms. Green Urban Lunch Box’s is open to order from now, and you can browse options here. You can also still sign up for their Farm Apprenticeships and Stewardships, or apply to work with them—GULB is hiring!
Porcini for State Mushroom Wins
Mushroom lovers (and anyone who followed the rather grim legislative session) got a happy win last month when the Porcini for State Mushroom bill went through and passed! Utah now has a State Mushroom! If you signed the petition, thank you!